CLIMBING IN TAVOLARA

Tavolara is a true paradise for those who have climbing in their DNA. The large valley known as the “Pratone” is dominated by two impressive limestone peaks: Punta Cannone (565 m) and Punta di Lucca (541 m).

The latter offers exceptional-quality rock, where in the early 2000s Enzo Lecis established the historic multi-pitch route that became an important chapter in the history of Sardinian climbing.

The route, named “Affora Sa Nato”, is a 7-pitch multi-pitch climb with approximately 215 metres of elevation gain, leading to the spectacular ridges of Tavolara. The name clearly refers to the presence of the NATO base, which occupies part of the island and has influenced its recent history.

Approach

From Spalmatore di Terra Beach, we follow the small coastal cliff in an easterly direction. We continue along a wide path which, after passing a scree slope and the old lime kilns, intersects with a smaller trail.

This is the most direct approach to the base of the route. The trail climbs the slopes of the island; at the junction, keep right and continue uphill, overcoming the first rocky ledge with a stony section and the characteristic juniper ladder (“Scala 'e Fustes”).

At the end of the ladder, continue climbing for a few metres until joining the path coming from Punta della Mandria. Keep left (north-east direction) and, after approximately 20 minutes, reach the start of the climbing route.

The Route

The route has been described in detail by Maurizio Oviglia on PlanetMountain. Below is a summary of the climbing itinerary.

Along the trail towards Punta Cannone, when the path first reaches the rocks of the western wall of Punta di Lucca, do not stop at the small ledge with visible bolts. Instead, continue approximately 20 metres uphill to the rounded spur, just before the path makes a short hairpin bend.

The first bolt is about 3 metres above the ground and is not immediately visible. Below it there is a small juniper tree with a sling around a natural thread.

The route develops on excellent limestone:

• Pitch 1: Climb the beautiful rock of the spur for 25 metres (bolts and natural protection), then a short traverse to the left leads to S1 – 30 m (5c).
• Pitch 2: Climb a vertical slab, then move left and continue straight towards a small tree on the right, reaching the belay on the ridge crest. S2 – 30 m (6a+).
• Pitch 3: Pass between the trees, climb a beautiful rock wall and then a crack leading to a new belay near vegetation. S3 – 30 m (6a).
• Pitch 4: Move right and climb a beautiful slab/diedre. S4 – 30 m (6b).
• Pitch 5: On the left, inside a gap, an old nut—probably placed by Bodo Habel—can be seen. Continue right towards the base of a beautiful slab and overcome it via a small exposed step onto a ledge. S5 – 30 m (6a).
• Pitch 6: Enter an easy basin and traverse right towards the north-west ridge, where the crest becomes more defined. S6 – 30 m (4c).
• Pitch 7: Follow the edge of the ridge, climbing a beautiful crack to the summit. S7 – 35 m (short section 6a).

The photographs feature Maurizio Oviglia during the ascent.

Descent

From the summit of Punta di Lucca, follow the ridge line in a south-easterly direction, descending towards the saddle.

You will first reach a rappel station for a 30-metre abseil, which leads to the end of a short via ferrata section.

If you choose to descend via the ferrata, walk approximately 40 metres towards Punta Cannone, easily recognised by the white statue of the Madonnina di Tavolara.

A red arrow marks the beginning of the equipped section, which ends at the bottom of the rappel.

From here, return by following the same trail used during the approach.

Everything you need to know to enjoy your Tavolara experience to the fullest: meeting times, prices, required equipment and what’s included. Plan your adventure and book your excursion today!

We are here to help with information, bookings and everything you need to organise your Tavolara experience.

📱 Phone
+39 333 689 8146

✉️ E-mail
thinkingsardinia@gmail.com